Broken Engine Steady?

Every Mini owner at some point will have an issue with a broken bolt or a stripped thread, due to the fine thread on the majority of bolts fitted to these cars. Whilst most are an easy repair, such as bumper bolts, others can be a lot more difficult to repair.

An ideal example of this is the bolt for the ....

Historical Article-August 1994-Steady Eddy

Steady Eddy My first visit to Mini Spares must have been over 12 years ago and while buying the usual go faster bits, I enquired about a Saturday job. A very lean and handsome Keith Calver could only offer me full time employment. I declined and subsequently have spent a small fortune over the years and drunk far too many pints of beer with K.C.

Historical Article-August 1994-Steady Eddy

Steady Eddy My first visit to Mini Spares must have been over 12 years ago and while buying the usual go faster bits, I enquired about a Saturday job. A very lean and handsome Keith Calver could only offer me full time employment. I declined and subsequently have spent a small fortune over the years and drunk far too many pints of beer with K.C.

Camshaft Design

Elgin Cams is a company that is a direct descendent of such famous California specialists as Isky, Delong, Winfield, etc. etc. Elgin has taken the art of cams into the science of the '90's. Computer designed and handcrafted workmanship guarantee a first class camshaft. Custom designed cams are a specialty. Part No Applications: CAM001, CAM002, CAM003, CAM004, CAM005, CAM006, CAM007 Elgin has made cams or sold his design to General Motors, Ford Motor Co., Nissan Corp., Zakespped International, Porsche Motor Sports, Winston Cup "Engine Builders. Elgin has the largest percentage of cams used at the SCCA Runoffs from GT-1 to Formula-V. He also has provided original or new technology for antique and vintage racers. Much information has been recorded about the four stroke internal combustion engine and yet only a small percentage of people really understand how it works and fewer people know how to modify an engine to suit their needs.

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Success for MiniSpares Rally team in Belgium

Round 7 of the 2004 MSA British Historic Rally Championship saw crews heading across the Channel for the only European round, The Tour of Flanders , based in Roeselare in Belgium, on Saturday and Sunday 10/11th September.

Dry weather and 14 closed public road stages challenged the crews over two days ,with the long straights and dangerous ditches favouring the quicker cars and the braver...

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

Exhausts - Sizing and styles

Now I just know I'm going to make myself very unpopular with an array of people by doing this article, but I can't help myself. It is something that plagues me continually.

It does not seem to matter which way I try and explain it, or how I represent it, I always meet a barrage of either unsubstantiated or uneducated reason and arguments. So now I have the stage to myself, I will put this as I see it from a wealth of experiment and reasoning over the past twenty years or so.

Exhausts. A subject that a great deal is known about in theory, yet a diminutive amount is actually applied in practice as far as the poor little A series engine is concerned. In fact, the only country where I have seen any money/time put into developing exhaust systems (and that means from cylinder head to the tailpipe) for the venerable little motor, is in America. It is a consequence of those that race and seek the ultimate fully expect to have to pay for it.

Oulton Park - Super Mighty Minis Championship.

Oulton Park in Cheshire was the venue that saw the drivers of the British Super Mighty Minis championship do battle for round 10.

Comis’s newly liveried car looked fantastic in the gleaming early morning August sunshine. On track for qualifying and it was business as usual. The times for the first laps fell steadily and things were looking good for the Birmingham hopeful.

SU Carbs - Poor idle quality

Something that crops up when any modifications are made to an engine - mainly in the form of improving induction and exhaust capability - is that of idle quality.

After applying aforementioned freer-breathing products to enhance power output, many complain that no matter what - including post rolling-road tuning - they can not get a satisfactory, steady idle setting. And this after checking for manifold/gasket air leaks and spindle to carb body play (usual suspect as the spindle wears quite dramatically over several thousand miles). There is one thing that is often over-looked - the air valve found on many later model cars. This sprung-loaded air valve is built into the butterfly, sometimes called a 'poppet' valve or anti-dive valve. It is primarily there to reduce emissions when the engine is on the over-run - closed throttle at speed, i.e. anything other than at idle and gearbox in neutral.

SU Carbs - The history

Practically every Mini owner can name the brilliant engineer responsible for our obsession. Many can name the man responsible for the rubber suspension spring.

A goodly number know a fair bit about the engine's heritage and the man who came up with the extremely efficient cylinder head design.They account for the biggest chunks of the Mini's anatomy. But what about that other extremely simple yet hugely effective instrument that features so prominently when engine tuning occurs - the SU carburetter? A limited few can tell you what 'SU' stands for, extremely few have any idea of its concept and evolution. So let's put that right… In the beginning Strangely enough, it all started way back with William Banks Skinner; one of the owners/directors of the well-known Lilly and Skinner footwear distributors.

C-STN17 - MINI SPARES STAGE ONE KIT (998cc only)

Beware: Instructions must be read carefully.

Although the 998/1300 stage one kits are bolt on parts easily fitted by any person with mechanical knowledge, the following must be understood.

MINI ENGINE STABILISER MSSK1000

1. This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2. Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3. Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine.

4. Remove the three bolts securing the bulkhead blanking plate as shown in the diagram. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram then this should be disconnected at the engine.

MINI ENGINE STABILISER MSSK1300

1. This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2. Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3. Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine. Remove the exhaust manifold stud by tighterning another nut against the original manifold nut and then screwing the nut out of the cylinder head.

4. Remove the three bolts securing the bulkhead blanking plate as shown in the diagram. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram then this should be disconnected at the engine.

Standard Classic Mini Winter Checks

In order to keep your Mini in full working order this winter, we have put together a small guide of things to check, besides the routine servicing

Cooling System
Antifreeze is a must in a Mini for the winter. A Winter mix of Antifreeze to water over the winter will stop any potential problems with freezing conditions.
Cooling Hoses. Check the condition of all...

Engine Stabiliser Bush Kits- Is poly the answer.

For several years now, the Mini has always struggled with wearing out engine stabiliser bushes. The combination of heat and oil on the standard rubber bushes has always caused a problem, and on standard mini’s often causes problems with making exhaust manifold downpipes blow. The widely accepted “modification” has always been to fit a set of polyurethane (or equivalent) bushes

These kits look nicer...

11.08.07 - Snetterton Report by Keith Calver

Having made some improvements and progress at Croft the decision now was – what to do next? The increase in toe-out on the rear, despite being a small amount, seemed to help get the car turned better. Should I add more? In my 'softly softly' approach to getting the car sorted so I don't loose my way I contemplated this for a while and decided that on the whole it would be better to go to Snetterton with the car as it finished at Croft....

16.09.07 - Thruxton Report by Keith Calver

Post race check after Donnington revealed – well, nothing really. Except I still have oil coming from somewhere to give a fine rust-proof coating to the area adjacent to the Clutch housing. Seriously annoying as generally I don't build leaky engines. No leaks from the calipers – so that's a relief, although I am still lacking confidence in the brakes on the whole. I am more and more coming to the conclusion that it is the pad type....

MSG12 GEAR LEVER BIAS BARREL - FITTING INSTRUCTIONS.

The bias barrel was originally developed as part of our five speed gearbox package, necessary to facilitate accurate gear selection and gear lever position.

It soon became apparent that this device would vastly improve the gear change on the standard four speed rod change gearbox, endowing Minis and Metros with the ‘modern car’ feel, and taking the quessology out of gear selection.